Day of the Big Climb

Well, everyone....today was the day. We woke up at 11:15pm after about 3hrs sleep to find our tent a drafty 32.6 degrees F. We told each other after the fact that we had been asking ourselves at that moment 'What part of this idea sounded good originally?'

At midnight we were called for tea and cookies prior to the trek...but I couldn't drink anything with the anticipation building.

Before I go any farther with this tale...what were the Vegas odds on us making it to the top?

Back to the story....We were a sight to behold...each of us in layers - I had 5 on top and on bottom and had an extra top in reserve in the backpack. Kate had 5 layers on top and 6 on bottom. We had our boots, gaitors, headlamps, balaclavas, windproof fleeces, puffy down jackets, and more. It was an impressive showing for an assault on the mountain. Our main guide, James, and his assistant guide Masungo were geared up and ready to guide us up.

The day before was a full moon, so now it was an almost full moon. Kate and I used our headlamps for navigating the path for a while until we realized our guides were leading by moonlight...so we switched ours off and it was a totally surreal experience with the mountain and the trail showing it's features in shadow relief. The stars looked so close as if they were mobiles just above our heads.

The temperature started around 32 degrees F and then dropped to about 20 degrees F (based on when I was peeking at my watch temp gauge), but the wind decreased the temp by a good 15-20 additional degrees. So I know what you're thinking already...that's just like living in Chicago and heading to the office in the morning. We thought that, too...and dressed for it...and we're probably the first hikers at Kili ever to say that we were actually a little too warm during our trek....so we unzipped to breath a little to avoid getting sweaty that was fine. BUT the factors we lack in Chicago include being out in that cold for 10+ hrs straight...AND the fact that you are climbing from 15,000 to 19,000+ feet with oxygen significantly less readily available. So it was tough...and our guides kept us on a very slow pace with several rest stops.

You could see the train of headlamp lights of tourists up the mountain paths high up above as we climbed...and there were an occasional pair of headlamp lights that would bounce down the paths and go past us....people that couldn't quite acclimate or became ill and being escorted down the hill - their hike was over.

So we hiked and hiked...starting at approx 12:40am... we were a little nervous when our hearts pounded and we found ourselves out of breath and gasping for more air, but we kept on going. After hiking for what seemed like 3 hrs, Kate asked if we were at the halfway point yet, and he said 'maybe in 2 hours depending on the pace.' That was a bit of tough love from the guide.

It was around 17,000 feet when I thought it would be cool to take some digital video of the night trek...which I quickly realized was going to produce a dark video with some heavy breathing and shoes scraping loose rock...not a winner. So I stopped the recording and saw the dreaded LOW BATTERY symbol flashing on the screen! It's a known issue that batteries can get drained fast on the cold mountain. So...what did we do? Well I reached into my chest pocket and pulled out a fully charged backup battery! Oh yeah! For the record, we brought 2 digital cameras - each with backup batteries to mitigate the risk.

Then we were in the 18,200 foot range when we saw the beginnings of daybreak on the horizon which was absolutely stunning...and re-energizing. We kept hiking but also looked back over our shoulders at the brightening sky awaiting the sun to appear as the moon was getting ready to duck down behind the mountain.

We were exhausted at this point...living on a few sips of the water that hadn't frozen and about a dozen peanut M&Ms...and our stomachs were twisting around wondering what the heck we were doing...so hunger was not a problem, just energy draining away.

We got to the point where we saw 'Stella Point' which is where an explorer long ago THOUGHT it was the peak...and turned around there. But on the rim of this volcano is a higher point about 45 min past Stella point named Uhuru Peak (Freedom Peak). Kate said seeing Stella Point just a hundred or so (nearly vertical) yards away brought tears to her eyes that we were so close.

We tredged our way up that final path...with its silty scree punishing us and sliding us backwards every other step. I kept myself entertained in-between deep breaths by yelling out 'Stella! Stellaaaaa!' Not sure if anyone else was 'as' entertained as I was.

SO! I'm come to the point to say that we reached Stella Point! But you say...how could you get soooo close but not get to the actual summit!?! To that our reply is... WE DID IT! We made it the final 45 minutes to the summit and took that bad boy of a mountain by the horns and wrestled it down for a great win and tremendous experience for us!

It was a beautiful, clear morning so we could see all around for hundreds of miles and could see into the volcano's crater where it's possible to go explore and still feel a hot floor from lava still deep inside awaiting its next emergence. There are also grand glaciers and neighboring mountains. Was beautiful, and we took many photos. :-)

We actually stayed at the summit for about 30 minutes....we were (oddly) not having any issues with the altitude, lack of oxygen, and chilling wind. Finally our guide had to say 'Mark, it's time we head down the mountain.' I didn't want to leave! :-)

We spent 3 exhausting hours sliding down scree slopes with our guides back to the campsite where we had a couple of hours to 'un-layer' and 'rest' and re-pack...for there were 3 more hours of hiking to do today to get to our FINAL campsite (at an oxygen-rich 10k feet) where we are right now awaiting a dinner with all of our porters and support team to thank them and get to know them a little more. Then tomorrow we have one last 3 hour hike as we leave the area to get picked up by one of our outfitter's buses and head back to Arusha where we will (wash clothes and really dirty bodies) and then begin safari!

Thanks to everyone still keeping up with this blog! We shall be in touch as much as possible.